Assistance for Novice Luthiers

First Projects

In the days when woodworkers took apprentices, a wooden box for a sharpening stone was often the first project. It is still a useful first project and I use mine every day. It means the sharpening stone has to be obtained first and the box made the correct size to contain it. Make the box of hardwood, beech is a good choice. The stone could be an 8 inch India combination stone, fine one one side and medium on the other.

As you can see, in 1974, I made my box too small and had to chisel out the ends to get the stone in! Try to avoid this, but see note 6 below!

I also used the grain for the lid incorrectly. Had the grain run the length of the box there would have been less shrinkage. I tend use white spirit and not oil on the sharpening stone. Oil makes the woodwork very dirty, but take care as white spirit is rather flammable.

A second useful project is a thicknessing gauge. It is made of a u-shaped piece of hardwood and the ends of the arms are pierced with 7mm holes. In one hole is a coach bolt, if the bolt and hole are just the correct sizes, the coach bolt will make it's own thread in the hole. A small screw near to and at right angles to the bolt will fix it tight when necessary.

In the other arm a small piece of softwood is jammed into the hole. The softwood is first has a small nail epoxied into it's centre, then is whittled so the nail head is opposite the bolt. Click on the picture.

In use the distance between the sharpened nail and the tip of the bolt is adjusted with a feeler gauge and the wood to be thicknessed is passed between the two points and in marked where it is too thick. It's easier to make small scratches and remember to only scratch the inside surface of the work.

Increase Your Skills

The woodworking in musical instrument making needs to be precise and careful. The following practices will immediately raise the standard of woodwork.

  1. Make all important measurements twice, and ensure both readings are the same.
  2. Use a sharp, hard pencil to mark out shapes, and when cutting, always leave the pencil line on the work.
  3. Use planes and chisels very sharp.
  4. Do not throw away any offcuts. Beside being useful as repair stock, offcuts can be used to make temporary tools and to test finishes. Soundboard offcuts are used as bars.
  5. Avoid planing the wood too thin. There is a marked tendency towards lots of expensive shavings.
  6. Avoid making pieces too small. Every first instrument is smaller than the plan.
  7. Learn to sharpen and use a cabinet scraper.
  8. Learn to mix, cook and use the old fashioned hide glue.
  9. Fit and test all joints dry before applying glue. Use pads to protect the wood from pressure marks from metal clamps. Prevent the pads from being glued to the work by separating the work and the pads with paper.
  10. Dents in unfinished the wood can sometimes be steamed out with a hot clothes iron and a damp cloth.
  11. Avoid sandpaper, power sanders and files as tools for making joints or flat surfaces.

January 2010 - Workshop Project

I have been using a rather lightweight metal vice for years and always wanted something better. In a flea market in Bath, I found a metal work vice for fifteen quid. It was pretty heavy in my knapsack but it eventually made it to the workshop.

There, I took off the metal jaws and replaced them with ones made of rosewood, keeping the originals safe. I mounted the vice an a stout piece of hardwood.

Very soon after I was asked to make several bone nuts and saddles. I use bone from the local butcher and a hacksaw. The vice worked a treat - how have I done without it for so long?